ROSE RAMBLER 10.10.2013

ROSE RAMBLER 10.10.2013

Hello dear rose friends … Did you have an adventurous and creative time in the rose garden this past week … sure hope so!  I planted my bean seeds – just to be pedantic, I did it on the no planting days and then came along, in the same soil zone, and planting in between those seeds on the moon planting days.  Yes, of course, I marked them accordingly!!!

Your feedback this past week has been amazing … thank you!  Here we go with what to do according to the moon planting for this week:

Best sowing and planting days: 

Tomorrow 11th and then best sowing/pruning days from 7.10am on 15th, all day 16th to 11.20am on 17th.  No sowing on 12th!

As an extension to this, do some of your own research into when to have your hair cut – I know for 100% that there are times when, after a hair cut, my hair grows

faster and there are times when it grows more slowly – I’m sure it’s relative to the same principles as when to remove weeds or prune according to the Moon phases.

I’m too busy mowing lawns and pulling weeds to do the research – maybe if you’re sitting at the computer and curious, you might do the research for all of us and I will pass the information on!

STATE ROSE & GARDEN SHOW…

Yes, of course you’re all right … I got the date wrong and it is definitely

SUNDAY, 1ST DECEMBER

– we’ll attach the poster to remind yourself to take a day out and visit the
State Rose Garden at Werribee … we’ll be there!

GRA’S RAMBLE …

(another new name and one day, just for the fun of it, I’ll type it exactly as it is written for me – you can try and decipher it … the funniest joke you’ll ever read!!!  But meantime, I’ll correct it and make it legible for you to enjoy and take heed of … Diana)Thinking of using manure in your compost or as a mulch for the rose garden?  Horse manure is readily available in country areas and if you’re taking a drive out here, go along some of the minor roads and you will see gate signs ‘HORSE POO $2.00 A BAG’ (sounds a bit like Mary Poppins!).

Q. What do you call a pony with a sore throat?  A. A little horse (hoarse).

Back to the compost … add all sorts of manures – horse, cow, poultry, pigeon, etc. to a mix of lawn clippings/straw/lucerne/leaf litter and leave for 4 weeks;  water every 3rd day to get the microbes and worms working!

This rapid time of Spring growth needs feed, feed, feed but in small amounts, often!  Liquid fertilizing is great and you can make your own ‘green manure brew’ by placing weeds and herbs in a hessian bag and plunging in a drum of water – dunk the bag up and down every day and within 4 weeks you can water this brew at the rate of one part to ten parts water over all plants – parsley is great to add because it adds calcium which plants need!  Add liquid seaweed to the mix and you’ll apply up to 70 minerals as well!

One of my favourite roses:  OKLAHOMA – what a perfume, big darkest red flowers, strong bush and great in a vase … everybody loves this rose and it will be featured on our new catalogue which will be available soon …

Enjoy brewing – Graham

A QUEENSLAND BEAUTY …

We are so lucky here in the southern states with regular rainfall since the end of the long drought… spare a thought for our northern rose gardening buddies who grow the most glorious roses in the toughest of conditions! Laurel sent me this photo of the magnificent Maurice Utrillo.

IN CLOSING …

Finger prune all the blind shoots caused by the cold nights and if you’re planning for a special occasion at your house in the coming months, remember to prune at least 45 days prior to the event and you will have a spectacular display of roses to show off!  Enjoy this week in the rose garden …

~ Diana & Graham at Clonbinane

4 Replies to “ROSE RAMBLER 10.10.2013”

  1. ​Hi Diana,

    ​thanks for a great newsletter and keep pumping in the jokes.

    just a query for Graham and a possible warning to others about horse manure.
    Some time ago I purchased a couple of bags and spread it around the roses only to find it was full of horse hair. That wasn’t so bad but not so obvious was it was full of weed seeds as well. Probably whatever the horse had eaten. I’m still trying to eradicate the weeds 3 years later.
    I guess I should not have spread the stuff so quickly but is there a cheap way to destroy the seeds before using the manure?

    Mal

  2. Always an interesting part of mulching with ANYTHING! My lovely new bales of pea straw which were delivered this morning and I’ve already spread 21 of them!!! had, in nearly every bale, stalks of milk thistle … bugger!!!! Lucky it’s one of those weeds which are easy to pull out (especially on the right days.. ie moon phases make a real difference when pulling weeds!).

    The most concerning thing about horse manure is I think, the fact that the horses may have been wormed and that manure will definitely contain traces of the chemicals which will most certainly impact on and potentially kill the earthworms….? They’re worms too and as we know, chemicals DO NOT DISCRIMINATE … both good and bad will be killed!

    It’s a bit of a DAMNED IF YOU DO AND DAMNED IF YOU DON’T scenario which is why Graham usually brings horse manure onto the property and piles it up for composting first! Mulching is just so important for the preservation of the soil and whichever mulch we choose to use, there may be some negative consequences but quite generally, the worms, the microbes and the earth generally, is far better off with a layer of mulch over the soil … the roses seem to adapt and cope with any mulch because it keeps the soil moist and we know how much they love that!

    Thanks for your input and response to the Rose Rambler … cheers

  3. Diana

    This one best for your husband I think!! Received it yesterday from a good friend
    who is a heritage and organic apple grower in Pakenham. Makes sense to me particularly
    as we raised four sons who have produced ten grandsons for us.

    I smiled about the hair as I had just made an appointment for next Tuesday, so I am within
    the necessary dates! Joanne

    Farmers looking for a natural way to fertilize their crops may need to look no further than human urine, which is naturally rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus – the same ingredients in conventional fertilizers.

    Although the use of urine as fertilizer is rare (though not unheard of) today, it has actually been used as fertilizer since ancient times, and new research suggests it may be wise to bring this ancient tradition back.

    Beets Fertilized With Urine Grew 27 Percent Larger
    In one experiment, researchers compared beets grown in four different ways: one with conventional mineral fertilizer, another with urine, a third with urine and wood ash, and a final control group grown with no fertilizer.1

    The beets fertilized with urine were 10 percent larger, and those fertilized with urine/ash were 27 percent larger than those grown in mineral fertilizer. As for nutrient content, all the beets were similar, and in a blind taste test the beets were rated as equally flavorful.

    The researchers concluded that urine is a perfectly viable source of fertilizer, and one that is readily available and sustainable (the average American urinates 500 liters a year):

    “ … urine with or without ash can increase the yield of red beet and furthermore the microbial quality and chemical quality were similar to the situation in mineral-fertilized products.”

    As for the ‘yuck factor,’ human urine isn’t nearly as ‘gross’ as it seems, since it’s virtually sterile when it leaves your body. It also doesn’t carry bacteria like feces (and manure has been used as fertilizer for centuries).

    Further, research suggests that any residual hormones or pharmaceuticals are likely to be negligible and basically non-existent in urine-fertilized crops.2 Urine has also been used to fertilize cabbage, tomatoes, sweet peppers and cucumbers, with similar favorable results, and it’s free – unlike synthetic fertilizers that some farmers around the world can scarcely afford.

    Why Isn’t Urine Widely Used as Fertilizer?
    For starters, sewage systems would have to be radically redesigned to separate liquid waste from solid, a practice that requires the use of separating toilets that have a divided bowl and independent pipes to keep the urine separate.

    There are other benefits to using separating toilets as well, such as less water usage and less energy requirements in sewage treatment. However, neither the toilets, nor the sewage systems, are in widespread use.

    If you want to use urine to fertilize your backyard garden, feel free. But keep in mind that urine should be diluted with water at least 10:1 for most plants and should be separated from solid waste to avoid contamination (so collect your urine in a bottle or bucket, or invest in a urine-separating toilet). You can also add urine to your compost heap to enhance its nutritional content.

    Interestingly, it’s not only agriculture that could benefit from this sustainable resource; urine has also been used to develop fuel cells capable of charging a cell phone and may one day be used to power a car!

    Are Microorganisms More Important Than Fertilizer?
    The premise of using urine as fertilizer is certainly preferable to chemical fertilizers, which are known environmental pollutants. For instance, many areas of Minnesota, which is prime farmland, now face the problem of having dangerously elevated levels of nitrogen in their drinking water. Health risks of excessive nitrogen include a potential connection to cancer, as well as thyroid and reproductive problems in both humans and livestock.

    Modern fertilizer consists of varying amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These three are believed to be essential for plants to grow. This is why farmers spread fertilizer on their fields, to replace the nutrients lost. It’s certainly not the ideal and sustainable way to farm, but it’s thought to be the most efficient for large-scale farms. However, these three components may not be as necessary as we think, according to Dr. Elaine Ingham, an internationally recognized expert on the benefits of sustainable soil science.

    Helping Plants Get the Nutrients They Need from the Soil, Naturally
    The real nutrition your plants require is actually derived from microorganisms in the soil. These organisms take the mineral material that’s in your soil and convert it into a plant-available form. Without these bioorganisms, your plants cannot get the nutrients they need. So what you need is not more chemical soil additives, what you need is the proper balance of beneficial soil organisms.

    According to Dr. Ingham:

    “It’s very necessary to have these organisms. They will supply your plant with precisely the right balances of all the nutrients the plant requires. When you start to realize that one of the major roles and functions of life in the soil is to provide nutrients to the plants in the proper forms, then we don’t need inorganic fertilizers. We certainly don’t have to have genetically engineered plants or to utilize inorganic fertilizers if we get this proper biology back in the soil.”

    Interestingly enough, you can use a starter culture to boost the fermentation and generation of beneficial bacteria much in the same way you can boost the probiotics in your fermented vegetables. For compost, this strategy is used if you want to compost very rapidly. In that case, you can use a starter to inoculate the specific sets of organisms that you need to encourage in that compost.

    Worm farmers are also creating a natural product known as “vermicompost,” which greatly improves plant growth and make plants more resistant to disease and insects than plants grown with other composts and fertilizers. For optimal physical health, you need plant foods to contain the full set of nutrients that will allow the plant to grow in a healthy fashion, because that’s the proper balance of nutrients for us human beings as well. Dr. Ingham has written several books on this topic, including The Field Guide for Actively Aerated Compost Tea, and The Compost Tea Brewing Manual, for more information

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